Hakka Chinese in Kolkata Face Language Loss, Use Culinary Arts to Bridge Cultural Heritage
The Hakka Chinese in Kolkata's Tangra area face population decline, discrimination, and the loss of their language. However, they are working to preserve their cultural heritage through the promotion of Hakka cuisine.
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- 📰 Published: April 18, 2026 at 17:47
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Kolkata Hakka Chinese Feature 3 (CNA Reporter Li Chin-wei, Kolkata, 18th) The Hakka Chinese in the Tangra area of Kolkata once ran thriving leather tanneries, becoming an influential presence locally. However, with population outmigration and waning influence, the Hakka Chinese have begun facing discrimination, and their language and script are gradually being lost. Yet, a group of Chinese are hoping to keep the Hakka Chinese culture alive in India by promoting Hakka cuisine.
The Hakka Chinese in Kolkata's Tangra area were once numerous and united. They established numerous leather factories and established a firm foothold through the leather business. Due to their vast enterprises, the Hakka Chinese held considerable sway in local affairs, but times have changed, and the situation is now vastly different.
Hsiung Hsin-ling, a third-generation Hakka Chinese in Kolkata, stated that she was born and raised in the Tangra area. When she was young, the streets and alleys were filled with Hakka Chinese, and market vendors communicated with customers in Hakka or Mandarin. But as she grew up, Hakka Chinese successively left for other Indian cities, or even immigrated to Canada, Australia, and Austria in search of development opportunities.
Hsiung Hsin-ling said that after the Indian government required the tanneries in Tangra to relocate to Bantala, many tanneries were converted into restaurants, and more young people left. Now, the Tangra area has become very quiet, no longer as bustling as before.
Yeh Yin-hsiung, a Hakka Chinese amateur commercial actor who has shot several commercials, is somewhat well-known in Kolkata.
He mentioned that when his father was young, there were many Hakka Chinese in Kolkata. If there were local opinions unfavorable to Hakka Chinese, they would stand up to support their own. But now that many have left, "We no longer have the ability to speak up for our compatriots like we used to."
The nearly 30-year-old Yeh Yin-hsiung said that even though he is a native-born local, "Because the skin color of Hakka Chinese is obviously different from locals, they still perceive us as foreigners."
Local discrimination against Hakka Chinese in Kolkata has gradually surfaced as the Hakka Chinese population declined.
Yeh Yin-hsiung told the CNA reporter that in his generation, oftentimes when locals are dissatisfied with Hakka Chinese, they use common Chinese dishes like "Chow Mein" or Tibetan-style dumplings "momo" as derogatory terms to taunt them.
Although born and raised there, yet viewed as strangers by locals, Yeh Yin-hsiung remains optimistic about the integration of Hakka Chinese and locals.
He believes that India is rising, and there is still much room and hope for the country to improve. "For example, people here are starting to change. Their education levels are getting higher, they are gradually falling in love with Chinese food, and slowly starting to accept us."
Li Chi-sheng, a fourth-generation Hakka Chinese in Kolkata, also noted that what Tangra is famous for now is its Chinese restaurants. Many people visiting Kolkata specifically come here to taste Chinese food.
Today, the younger generation of Hakka Chinese in Tangra are mostly the fourth or fifth generation of Chinese immigrants to Kolkata. This has caused the language and traditional culture of the Hakka Chinese to slip away bit by bit.
During her interview, Chen I-chun, a fourth-generation Hakka Chinese, used English almost the entire time, only struggling to use pinyin to express terms like "filial piety" and "red envelope."
She stated that Hakka Chinese in Kolkata still celebrate traditional festivals. For instance, during the Lunar New Year, the Tangra area is very lively. The reunion dinner, lion dances, and receiving red envelopes are still the most anticipated events for Hakka Chinese every year. Additionally, they also eat mooncakes to celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival.
Chen I-chun said: "Hakka Chinese families still retain traditional customs like tomb sweeping. Elders also take opportunities to teach concepts about filial piety." However, she admitted: "When it comes to our generation, we primarily use English, not Hakka or Mandarin, which somewhat makes our thoughts and logic differ from the traditional mindset of Hakka Chinese."
Li Kuo-jung, a Hakka Chinese, runs a Chinese restaurant in Tangra. When the 65-year-old was asked his Chinese name by the reporter, he tore off a blank receipt, thought for a long while, and then crookedly wrote down his Chinese name with a pen.
Li Kuo-jung sighed heavily to the reporter and said: "It's been a long time since I wrote it, probably almost 40 years. If I don't write it again, I will really forget how to write my own name."
As the language and traditions of Kolkata's Chinese are gradually lost, Hakka chef Lin Hsiu-mei is bringing Hakka cuisine to the tables of high-end hotels, helping Hakka food shed labels like "cheap" and "fast food."
Lin Hsiu-mei collaborates with top restaurants and five-star hotels across India to host multiple culinary and cultural festivals. She stated that she hopes to properly promote Hakka cuisine, letting everyone know that besides the standard "Hakka stir-fry," there are more exquisite Hakka delicacies, allowing for a deeper understanding of Hakka culture.
Lin Hsiu-mei believes that "food" is a universal language. "I think food can bridge the distance between people better than festivals or clothing."
She told the reporter: "I have hosted Hakka Chinese from Singapore and China. After eating my dishes, they told me that the food brought back their childhood memories, and they were surprised to eat such authentic Hakka dishes in India."
Lin Hsiu-mei said, "The dishes I serve and the way I cook them are the stories I want to tell." Every dish conveys a message: how Hakka Chinese adapted to this place and how they found the necessary ingredients in India to make Hakka food.
Lin Hsiu-mei believes food is the best medium for communication and exchange, and a fantastic way to spread knowledge and enhance mutual understanding. "When I organize these food festivals, I also integrate the stories of Hakka Chinese scattered across India, allowing everyone to understand Hakka food and culture." (Editor: Chen Yen-chun) 1150418
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Kolkata Hakka Chinese Feature 3 (CNA Reporter Li Chin-wei, Kolkata, 18th) The Hakka Chinese in the Tangra area of Kolkata once ran thriving leather tanneries, becoming an influential presence locally. However, with population outmigration and waning influence, the Hakka Chinese have begun facing discrimination, and their language and script are gradually being lost. Yet, a group of Chinese are hoping to keep the Hakka Chinese culture alive in India by promoting Hakka cuisine.
The Hakka Chinese in Kolkata's Tangra area were once numerous and united. They established numerous leather factories and established a firm foothold through the leather business. Due to their vast enterprises, the Hakka Chinese held considerable sway in local affairs, but times have changed, and the situation is now vastly different.
Hsiung Hsin-ling, a third-generation Hakka Chinese in Kolkata, stated that she was born and raised in the Tangra area. When she was young, the streets and alleys were filled with Hakka Chinese, and market vendors communicated with customers in Hakka or Mandarin. But as she grew up, Hakka Chinese successively left for other Indian cities, or even immigrated to Canada, Australia, and Austria in search of development opportunities.
Hsiung Hsin-ling said that after the Indian government required the tanneries in Tangra to relocate to Bantala, many tanneries were converted into restaurants, and more young people left. Now, the Tangra area has become very quiet, no longer as bustling as before.
Yeh Yin-hsiung, a Hakka Chinese amateur commercial actor who has shot several commercials, is somewhat well-known in Kolkata.
He mentioned that when his father was young, there were many Hakka Chinese in Kolkata. If there were local opinions unfavorable to Hakka Chinese, they would stand up to support their own. But now that many have left, "We no longer have the ability to speak up for our compatriots like we used to."
The nearly 30-year-old Yeh Yin-hsiung said that even though he is a native-born local, "Because the skin color of Hakka Chinese is obviously different from locals, they still perceive us as foreigners."
Local discrimination against Hakka Chinese in Kolkata has gradually surfaced as the Hakka Chinese population declined.
Yeh Yin-hsiung told the CNA reporter that in his generation, oftentimes when locals are dissatisfied with Hakka Chinese, they use common Chinese dishes like "Chow Mein" or Tibetan-style dumplings "momo" as derogatory terms to taunt them.
Although born and raised there, yet viewed as strangers by locals, Yeh Yin-hsiung remains optimistic about the integration of Hakka Chinese and locals.
He believes that India is rising, and there is still much room and hope for the country to improve. "For example, people here are starting to change. Their education levels are getting higher, they are gradually falling in love with Chinese food, and slowly starting to accept us."
Li Chi-sheng, a fourth-generation Hakka Chinese in Kolkata, also noted that what Tangra is famous for now is its Chinese restaurants. Many people visiting Kolkata specifically come here to taste Chinese food.
Today, the younger generation of Hakka Chinese in Tangra are mostly the fourth or fifth generation of Chinese immigrants to Kolkata. This has caused the language and traditional culture of the Hakka Chinese to slip away bit by bit.
During her interview, Chen I-chun, a fourth-generation Hakka Chinese, used English almost the entire time, only struggling to use pinyin to express terms like "filial piety" and "red envelope."
She stated that Hakka Chinese in Kolkata still celebrate traditional festivals. For instance, during the Lunar New Year, the Tangra area is very lively. The reunion dinner, lion dances, and receiving red envelopes are still the most anticipated events for Hakka Chinese every year. Additionally, they also eat mooncakes to celebrate the Mid-Autumn Festival.
Chen I-chun said: "Hakka Chinese families still retain traditional customs like tomb sweeping. Elders also take opportunities to teach concepts about filial piety." However, she admitted: "When it comes to our generation, we primarily use English, not Hakka or Mandarin, which somewhat makes our thoughts and logic differ from the traditional mindset of Hakka Chinese."
Li Kuo-jung, a Hakka Chinese, runs a Chinese restaurant in Tangra. When the 65-year-old was asked his Chinese name by the reporter, he tore off a blank receipt, thought for a long while, and then crookedly wrote down his Chinese name with a pen.
Li Kuo-jung sighed heavily to the reporter and said: "It's been a long time since I wrote it, probably almost 40 years. If I don't write it again, I will really forget how to write my own name."
As the language and traditions of Kolkata's Chinese are gradually lost, Hakka chef Lin Hsiu-mei is bringing Hakka cuisine to the tables of high-end hotels, helping Hakka food shed labels like "cheap" and "fast food."
Lin Hsiu-mei collaborates with top restaurants and five-star hotels across India to host multiple culinary and cultural festivals. She stated that she hopes to properly promote Hakka cuisine, letting everyone know that besides the standard "Hakka stir-fry," there are more exquisite Hakka delicacies, allowing for a deeper understanding of Hakka culture.
Lin Hsiu-mei believes that "food" is a universal language. "I think food can bridge the distance between people better than festivals or clothing."
She told the reporter: "I have hosted Hakka Chinese from Singapore and China. After eating my dishes, they told me that the food brought back their childhood memories, and they were surprised to eat such authentic Hakka dishes in India."
Lin Hsiu-mei said, "The dishes I serve and the way I cook them are the stories I want to tell." Every dish conveys a message: how Hakka Chinese adapted to this place and how they found the necessary ingredients in India to make Hakka food.
Lin Hsiu-mei believes food is the best medium for communication and exchange, and a fantastic way to spread knowledge and enhance mutual understanding. "When I organize these food festivals, I also integrate the stories of Hakka Chinese scattered across India, allowing everyone to understand Hakka food and culture." (Editor: Chen Yen-chun) 1150418
Stand with the facts, every contribution you make is the power to protect press freedom.
Download the CNA "First Hand News" APP for instant breaking news.
The text, images, and audio/video on this website may not be reproduced, broadcast, transmitted, or used without authorization.