Young Spaniards Stop Eating Fish, Traditional Fish Markets Sound Alarm

By Hu Chia-chi, Madrid Correspondent

June 17, 2026, 21:57 (Updated 22:06)

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Surrounded by sea on three sides—Atlantic Ocean to the northwest, Cantabrian Sea to the north, and Mediterranean Sea to the southeast—Spain has a thriving fishing industry and abundant seafood harvests. This has nurtured a rich marine and fishing culture, and a diverse seafood cuisine that inland European countries envy: a deep-rooted 'fish-eating culture'.

As one of the representative nations of the Mediterranean diet, fish is a daily staple in Spain, reflecting both culinary artistry and cultural values. Iconic ingredients like salt-cured cod (Bacalao en salazón), the soulful tapas of salted anchovies (Anchoa) and vinegar-marinated anchovies (Boquerón), premium seafood canned goods crafted with exceptional skill, and the ancient Phoenician-originated tuna fishing method known as Almadraba—Spain’s fish-centric history is an endless story.

Ask any Spaniard about fish dishes, and regional pride emerges: from the Basque coast’s charcoal-grilled whole fish (Pescado a la donostiarra), to Valencia’s globally beloved seafood paella (Paella de marisco), and Andalusia’s beachside sardine skewers (Espeto).

Even Madrid, an inland capital, receives the freshest 'direct-from-source' seafood nationwide, driven by demand from the royal family, government officials, and elite social circles.

However, according to Spain’s public broadcaster RTVE, despite once being among the world’s top fish-consuming nations—with per capita annual consumption peaking at 40kg in 2000—Spain has seen a sharp decline. Today, that figure has dropped to under 18kg per person annually, below the global average. This is attributed to an aging fish-eating population, younger generations unable to afford fish, and a lack of time and experience in preparing it.

On the other hand, international food trends—especially the rising popularity of Japanese cuisine like sushi—have boosted fish consumption through dining out, which is growing at an 8% annual rate.

Mariona, a 26-year-old lawyer, told the Central News Agency that she only eats fish once a week, and only because her mother-in-law buys it for her. Besides cost, she admits she fears cooking fresh fish, saying, 'Raw fish looks a bit scary.'

José and Pepe, two 22-year-old university students shopping at the Mercadona supermarket chain in Madrid, said they eat little fish since moving out. 'We almost only eat fish when we go back home to our parents.'

When asked if they buy fish, they initially said 'Yes!' in unison. But when the reporter clarified, 'At a traditional fish shop?', they blushed and laughed, saying, 'Never. We only buy pre-packaged, boneless fillets from supermarkets.'

According to TeleMadrid, the future of Spain’s traditional fish shops is precarious. In 2007, there were over 15,000 such shops nationwide. Today, only about 9,000 remain, with an average of 375 closing each year. In Madrid, the situation is even worse—fish shop numbers have halved in just over a decade.

Ana, who runs a well-known fish stall at Madrid’s Vallehermoso Market, told the Central News Agency that while fish prices have indeed risen over the past decade she and her husband have been in business, many loyal customers still try to maintain their fish-eating habits, though their visit frequency has declined.

She added that traditional fishmongers offer full 'custom preparation'—deheading, deboning, filleting—so customers can cook easily at home. 'The barrier to cooking fresh fish is actually low,' she emphasized. Yet, young customers remain rare.

'How much time do young people have to buy and cook fish? They’d rather sit at an outdoor café drinking beer—especially now, in summer, everyone is too lazy to cook,' Ana lamented.

Most traditional fish shops in Spain are family-run or operated by self-employed vendors. Facing competition from supermarkets, an aging cohort of owners, lack of successors, and a shortage of skilled fishmongers, the industry is steadily declining.

Fortunately, Rosalía, a 28-year-old pharmacist, told the Central News Agency she is an 'exception'—a young person who loves and buys fish. She eats fish about four times a week. When busy, she buys from supermarkets, but always tries to visit fish shops to buy whole fish, have it sliced, and freeze it for later use.

The reporter, proud to live in a country as seafood-rich as her homeland Taiwan, hopes more young Spaniards like Rosalía emerge—so traditional fish shops don’t vanish entirely, and fish lovers can continue enjoying fresh, high-quality seafood. (Editor: Chang Chih-hsuan) 1150617

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