$40 Half-Chicken at New York Restaurant Sparks Debate Over Soaring Dining Costs
A Brooklyn restaurant owner, Hugo Hivernat, has found himself at the center of a heated debate over inflation after pricing half a roast chicken at $40. He argues that high overheads leave almost no profit margin despite the steep price tag.
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- 📰 Published: April 28, 2026 at 16:33
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NEW YORK, April 28 (AFP) — Only days after opening his restaurant, Ivena, in Brooklyn, owner Hugo Hivernat was unexpectedly drawn into a controversy regarding the rising cost of eating out in New York City, triggered by his $40 (approx. NT$1,264) price tag for a half roast chicken.
For some, this price highlights the increasingly prohibitive cost of dining in the 'world's food capital.' However, Hivernat insists that given the extreme operating costs, his margins are razor-thin. 'Under the cost-of-living crisis, we are also forced into this position,' he said. He debunked the notion that $40 chickens fund a luxury lifestyle, explaining that he is struggling just like everyone else.
Hivernat detailed the $40 breakdown: 25% goes to premium ingredients like high-quality chicken from upstate New York, while the rest covers rent, utilities, wages, and other overheads. Any remaining profit is funneled toward repaying $500,000 in startup debt.
This issue strikes a chord as Americans suffer from high living costs, a central campaign platform for NYC's current left-wing mayoral candidate Zohran Mamdani. A report released in February by the New York State financial monitor showed NYC's dining prices rose 43.6% in the decade leading to 2023, outpacing the national average of 42.8%.
Andrew Rigie, CEO of the New York City Hospitality Alliance, told AFP that many restaurants are simply failing to make a profit. He cited multiple headwinds including rising insurance premiums, a slow post-pandemic recovery, and increased ingredient costs due to tariffs. A survey of over 200 restaurants revealed that nearly half (46%) saw lower-than-expected actual revenues in the fourth quarter of 2025.
For some, this price highlights the increasingly prohibitive cost of dining in the 'world's food capital.' However, Hivernat insists that given the extreme operating costs, his margins are razor-thin. 'Under the cost-of-living crisis, we are also forced into this position,' he said. He debunked the notion that $40 chickens fund a luxury lifestyle, explaining that he is struggling just like everyone else.
Hivernat detailed the $40 breakdown: 25% goes to premium ingredients like high-quality chicken from upstate New York, while the rest covers rent, utilities, wages, and other overheads. Any remaining profit is funneled toward repaying $500,000 in startup debt.
This issue strikes a chord as Americans suffer from high living costs, a central campaign platform for NYC's current left-wing mayoral candidate Zohran Mamdani. A report released in February by the New York State financial monitor showed NYC's dining prices rose 43.6% in the decade leading to 2023, outpacing the national average of 42.8%.
Andrew Rigie, CEO of the New York City Hospitality Alliance, told AFP that many restaurants are simply failing to make a profit. He cited multiple headwinds including rising insurance premiums, a slow post-pandemic recovery, and increased ingredient costs due to tariffs. A survey of over 200 restaurants revealed that nearly half (46%) saw lower-than-expected actual revenues in the fourth quarter of 2025.