Breguet Celebrates the 225th Anniversary of the Tourbillon with Special New Models

Breguet Manufactory Celebrates the Legacy of the Tourbillon with a Series of Exceptional New Timepieces

The Breguet Manufactory has long been dedicated to advancing the tourbillon, an invention by watchmaker Breguet. Remaining rooted in the original concept, Breguet continuously refines this valuable mechanism to serve its own pursuit of precision. This vision is embodied in the new timepieces unveiled here.

Classique Tourbillon 7357

A Historic Invention

In 1793, amid the brutal acts of the French Revolution, Breguet and his family were forced to leave their workshop on Quai de l’Horloge, leading Breguet to seek refuge in Switzerland. During his stay in Neuchâtel and then Le Locle, Breguet used this period of interruption to revisit some of his most original ideas and contemplate the future of his Maison.

After returning to Paris in 1795, Breguet introduced a series of inventions that would decisively shape not only his own future but also the future of horology. These include the 'Sympathique Clock,' which synchronized a pocket watch placed atop a mantel clock; the 'Souscription Watch,' which redefined watch design codes through minimalism and which the Maison Breguet revived in 2025; and the 'Montre à tact,' a watch that allowed time to be read by touch.

Abraham-Louis Breguet also developed two mechanisms: the 'Constant Force' escapement, patented in 1798, and the 'Tourbillon Regulator,' patented three years later in 1801. This year, Breguet celebrates the 225th anniversary of the tourbillon.

Watercolor technical drawing of the patented Tourbillon Regulator mechanism, 1801.

The Formation of a Horological Revolution

The Tourbillon Regulator, or tourbillon, was conceived based on the observation that the balance and hairspring—the critical components regulating a timepiece—are affected by Earth’s gravity, causing them to vibrate unevenly. The regulating organ is thus subject to gravity’s detrimental effects. Pocket watches of Breguet’s era were typically carried in a vertical position, making the uneven gravitational pull even more pronounced.

Breguet understood that one could not escape the laws of gravity. Instead, he devised a way to neutralize its effects. His solution was to place the escapement and regulating organ (balance and hairspring) inside a cage (carriage) that continuously rotates around its axis, allowing the mechanism to assume all possible orientations. This keeps the center of gravity of the balance and hairspring aligned with the center—i.e., the axis of rotation—thereby correcting the uneven oscillations caused by gravity in a stationary position. Breguet conceived this system to effectively 'scramble' all vertical positions, ultimately achieving greater precision.

Although the idea of the tourbillon likely matured in Breguet’s mind during his Swiss exile between 1793 and 1795, it took six years after his return to Paris to secure the patent on June 26, 1801. Another six years passed before the first tourbillon timepiece was sold.

Between 1796 and 1829, Breguet and his collaborators completed 40 tourbillons. Nine additional pieces remained unfinished, recorded in ledgers as 'lost,' 'scrapped,' or 'missing.'

For many years, the Breguet Manufactory has relentlessly refined the tourbillon—one of horology’s most delicate and complex mechanisms—to open new frontiers in precision. To this end, the Maison has developed new purely horological techniques such as high-frequency movements, while also incorporating cutting-edge technologies like the magnetic constant-force escapement, further expanding the tourbillon’s potential.

Classique Tourbillon 7357

The 'Classique 7357' continues the lineage of Breguet’s historic 'Ref. 3350.' Introduced in 1989, the 'Ref. 3350' was the first wristwatch tourbillon produced by the modern Breguet Maison. The legendary Caliber 558 powered this highly sought-after 'Ref. 3350' among collectors. The new 'Classique Tourbillon 7357' is its direct descendant, equipped with Caliber 187B—the optimized evolution of the famous Caliber 558. To commemorate the 225th anniversary of the tourbillon patent, the model is available in two versions: platinum and Breguet Gold, both certified with the Breguet Seal.

Classique Tourbillon 7357

A Prestigious Lineage

Drawing inspiration from the past to shape the future of watchmaking—a dynamic approach not unique to today’s Breguet Manufactory, but one already practiced by Abraham-Louis Breguet himself. He never regarded the tourbillon as a final, perfected invention. Instead, he continuously explored adjacent domains to evolve his creation. This ongoing development was carried on after his death in 1823 by his son.

The Maison Breguet has followed the same path. When the Maison developed the 'Ref. 3350' in 1989, the tourbillon existed beyond mainstream horology, captivating only a small circle of collectors passionate about mechanical craftsmanship.

Nearly 40 years later, the Maison Breguet’s mission of heritage preservation has elevated the tourbillon, restoring it to its status as a coveted masterpiece. While the tourbillon is now widely adopted by most watch brands, only Breguet Manufactory holds the historical legitimacy of having secured the famous patent on June 26, 1801—exactly 225 years ago. The new 'Classique Tourbillon 7357' embodies this invaluable legacy.

A Tourbillon Anchored in Modernity

The 'Ref. 3350' was a 20th-century tourbillon. The two new 'Classique Tourbillon 7357' models are unmistakably creations of the 21st century.

Their design codes follow the distinctive styling of the collection launched in 2025 to mark Breguet’s 250th anniversary. The lugs have been redesigned to better conform to the curve of the wrist. On the 18K gold dial, Arabic numerals—introduced by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century to emphasize modernity—are once again prominently featured. The dial is further enhanced by two of the Maison’s most iconic guilloché patterns: Clous de Paris in the center and Grecque Intertwined around the periphery.

For the decoration of the movement plate and case back, Breguet has introduced an entirely new guilloché motif. Inspired by the mountainous Dan de Vullion, a symbol of the Vallée de Joux where the Manufactory is based.

Guilloché decoration on the case back

A Special Movement: Caliber 187B

The two new 'Classique Tourbillon 7357' models are equipped with the new Caliber 187B.

This movement fundamentally retains the architecture of the original Caliber 558. It displays hours, minutes, and seconds, regulated by a tourbillon. It maintains the historically significant frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations per hour)—a rate praised by collectors, used by Abraham-Louis Breguet himself, and already featured in the 1989 'Ref. 3350.' True to this heritage, Caliber 187B remains a manual-wind movement.

At the same time, Caliber 187B has been significantly optimized through the Manufactory’s R&D. First, it is anti-magnetic: the hands are made of gold instead of steel to prevent magnetic interference with the movement.

It offers a 60-hour power reserve, and movement precision is enhanced by a Breguet balance spring made of Nivrelast, combined with a silicon pallet fork. This material ensures perfect anti-magnetism even in magnetic environments, meeting the requirements of the Breguet Seal.

Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255

The 'Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255,' a representative model from the collection launched to celebrate the Maison’s 250th anniversary, is Breguet’s first wristwatch to feature a flying tourbillon. This new variation also connects to the 'Mystery' watch concept—a mechanism Breguet has been using for nearly 20 years.

Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255

The Astronomical Roots of the Tourbillon

The presence of the tourbillon in timepieces evoking Breguet’s astronomical legacy is tied to a historical context. Indeed, the modern meaning of 'tourbillon' is very close to its etymology, understood as 'something that rotates rapidly in a circle.'

However, in the 17th and 18th centuries, its meaning was different. The mathematician Blaise Pascal expanded the term to mean 'a celestial system in rotational motion.' Thus, the concept of the tourbillon at the time extended to celestial systems and was directly linked to astronomy.

Breguet studied astronomy under Father Marry at the Collège Mazarin and later became a member of the Academy of Sciences, serving on the Paris Meridian Commission, which oversaw various aspects of astronomy.

A New Model Celebrating the 225th Anniversary of the Tourbillon

The new 'Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255' features a platinum case and a black Grand Feu enamel aventurine dial. This new color scheme further strengthens the model’s connection to its astronomical origins.

In this model, the gold chapter ring is blackened, and the applied 'Breguet' and 'Tourbillon' inscriptions, as well as the bridge over the tourbillon, are crafted from rhodium-finished Breguet Gold. The movement visible through the sapphire case back features guilloché engraving in the Quai de l’Horloge pattern. The hand-wound movement offers a 50-hour power reserve.

This model is limited to 50 pieces.

Tradition Tourbillon Fusée 7047

When Abraham-Louis Breguet returned to France after seeking refuge in Switzerland during the revolutionary turmoil, he developed two mechanisms: first, the 'Constant Force' mechanism patented in 1798, and then, three years later in 1801, the 'Tourbillon Regulator.' These two mechanisms now form the core of the new '7047.'

An Ingenious Mechanism for Torque Control: The Fusée (Chain-Fusee)

To extend the tourbillon’s invention, Maison Breguet turned to a principle shaped by another genius—Leonardo da Vinci, active in the 15th and 16th centuries. While da Vinci was likely not the inventor of the fusée-chain mechanism—evidence suggests it existed about 50 years before his surviving sketches—his preserved drawings clearly depict the structure and principle of the fusée as used in contemporary horology.

To ensure constant torque, the chain is wound around a conical pulley, gradually decreasing in circumference from bottom to top. When the mainspring is fully wound and delivering maximum power (torque), the chain is wrapped around the smallest circumference at the top of the pulley. As the torque decreases during unwinding, the chain moves toward the largest circumference at the base. These two actions occur simultaneously, compensating for each other to deliver consistent torque.

A First-of-its-Kind Design for a Limited Edition of 25

Breguet enhances the aesthetic appeal of the newly introduced 'Tradition Tourbillon Fusée 7047' with a platinum case and French blue coloring. The French blue is used not only on the dial and tourbillon bridge but also on the bridge supporting the fusée (chain-fusee), partially visible beneath the dial. Even the chain itself is colored French blue.

The French blue Grand Feu enamel dial features Arabic numerals. Breguet’s signature 'secret sign' is engraved on the dial, hand-carved using a pantograph, as seen on the 250th-anniversary models. These elements are further highlighted by a new-to-Breguet ice blue finish on the Côtes de Genève movement decoration, visible on the case back. All French blue bridges stand out against the ice blue background, embodying the aesthetic principles of harmony, simplicity, and clarity that Abraham-Louis Breguet always upheld.

A Marine Tourbillon in French Blue

The 'Marine' collection is rooted in the historical relationship between Abraham-Louis Breguet and the French Royal Navy. After being appointed to the Meridian Commission on December 10, 1814, Breguet was officially named 'Horologist to the Royal Navy' by King Louis XVIII on October 27, 1815. This prestigious title was awarded only to watchmakers with exceptional knowledge and skill in marine chronometers. It was granted to a single individual, signifying that one watchmaker alone bore this responsibility for the entire kingdom.

The 'Marine' collection honors this legacy. Among the Maison’s current lineup, the 'Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887' is one of the most complex wristwatches. Here, it takes on a historical guise: its dial meticulously depicts the night sky over Paris at midnight on June 26, 1801—the date Breguet secured the tourbillon patent—rendered with luminescent detailing.

This 25-piece limited edition can also be personalized to depict the sky for a specific date and location.

Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887

What is the Equation of Time?

The 'Équation Marchante' (Running Equation of Time) is a signature Breguet complication. This mechanism displays both the standard mean solar time, which progresses uniformly on the main dial, and the true solar time, which varies in minutes. This variation arises because Earth’s orbit is elliptical. The difference between true solar time and mean solar time is known as the 'Equation of Time.' The two align only four times a year. In other words, throughout the year, true solar time can differ from mean solar time by up to minus 16 minutes or plus 4 minutes.

An Exceptionally Intuitive Complication

While various methods exist to display the equation of time, Breguet Manufactory is among the few manufacturers to use a second minute hand that directly indicates true solar time, allowing the difference from mean solar time to be instantly and intuitively read. This approach is why it is called 'Équation Marchante' (Running Equation of Time).

Accurate date tracking requires coordination between the equation of time and a perpetual calendar. This model combines these two major complications, adding a third: the tourbillon, which maximizes movement precision. This embodies the purest expression of the philosophy behind the marine chronometers crafted by Horologist to the Royal Navy, Abraham-Louis Breguet.

In the 19th century, Breguet’s precision timepieces accompanied the era’s greatest explorers on large-scale scientific expeditions and voyages. The Maison’s marine chronometers were carried aboard ships such as Louis de Freycinet’s Pacific expedition (1817–1820) and Yves-Joseph de Bougainville’s circumnavigation. Breguet’s Regulator No. 4367, carried by Jules Dumont d’Urville, became the first timekeeping instrument to reach Antarctica in 1840. These instruments, used as genuine navigational tools, prove Breguet’s pivotal role in maritime discovery.

A Limited Edition Etched with History

This model belongs to the third generation of the iconic 'Marine' collection, first launched in 1990 and significantly renewed in 2017. Housed in a 43.9mm platinum case, the dial features Arabic numerals—an innovative design introduced by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 18th century.

The dial is divided into two parts. The central section, made of sapphire crystal, features a hand-painted miniature on the underside with transparent blue-gradient Grand Feu enamel, and on the surface, a luminous hand-painted miniature that brings to life the night sky and constellations of Paris on June 26, 1801. The Arabic numerals are applied in gold.

On the reverse, an exquisite hand-engraved sculpture depicts the 18th-century warship Royal Louis. The Breguet Gold warship sailing across the ocean creates an elegant contrast against the rhodium-finished sky and sea. For the first time in the Marine collection, a rosette (circular floral) decoration is hand-engraved on the Breguet Gold mainspring barrel cover. You’ll also notice a fleur-de-lis in Breguet Gold at the north point—a subtle homage to King Louis XVIII, who entrusted Breguet to guide the French fleet across the world’s oceans. Around the movement’s periphery lies a peripheral rotor, adorned with guilloché engraving in the 'Quai de l’Horloge' pattern and blue coloring, referencing the historic address of Breguet’s Paris workshop. Hand-engraved text completes the scene.

Learn More

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